The Evolution of Fashion Photography: Who’s the Father?

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Fashion photography has come a long way since its inception. From being just a tool to showcase clothing, it has evolved into a powerful medium that influences fashion trends and culture. But who is the father of fashion photography? The answer to this question is not as straightforward as one might think. In this article, we will explore the evolution of fashion photography and the various pioneers who have contributed to its development. We will delve into the works of legends like Edward Steichen, Alexei Brodovitch, and Richard Avedon, who have left an indelible mark on the world of fashion photography. So, buckle up and get ready to embark on a journey through the evolution of fashion photography and the fascinating lives of its pioneers.

The Emergence of Fashion Photography

The Roots of Fashion Photography

The roots of fashion photography can be traced back to the late 19th century when photographers began to capture images of people wearing the latest styles. The earliest fashion photographs were primarily used in magazines and newspapers to showcase the latest fashions and trends.

One of the earliest and most influential fashion photographers was Edward Steichen, who began his career as a painter before turning to photography. Steichen’s photographs, which often featured elegant and sophisticated clothing, helped to establish fashion photography as an art form.

Another important figure in the early history of fashion photography was the photographer and stylist, Alexander Liberman. Liberman was known for his bold use of color and form, and his photographs often featured abstract compositions that emphasized the shape and texture of the clothing.

As fashion photography continued to evolve, it began to influence and be influenced by other art forms, such as painting and sculpture. The Surrealist movement, which emerged in the 1920s, had a particularly strong impact on fashion photography, inspiring photographers to experiment with dreamlike and fantastical imagery.

Throughout the 20th century, fashion photography continued to develop and expand, with photographers such as Richard Avedon and Irving Penn creating iconic images that have become synonymous with the industry. Today, fashion photography remains an important and influential art form, with photographers continuing to push the boundaries of the medium and redefine what it means to capture the essence of fashion.

Early Fashion Photographers

Pioneers of Fashion Photography

Fashion photography has its roots in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when photographers began to capture the elegance and glamour of haute couture. Among the pioneers of fashion photography were Edward Steichen, a American photographer who was the chief photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair, and Adolphe de Meyer, a French photographer who was the first fashion photographer for Vogue.

Influence of Painting and Sculpture

Fashion photography drew inspiration from the art of painting and sculpture, particularly the works of the Impressionists and the Art Nouveau movement. Photographers such as Steichen and de Meyer used techniques such as soft focus, shallow depth of field, and dramatic lighting to create images that were not only visually appealing but also artistic in nature.

Fashion as a Form of Self-Expression

In the early days of fashion photography, the images were often stiff and formal, with models posing in front of a plain background. However, as fashion photography evolved, so did the way models expressed themselves. Photographers such as Steichen and de Meyer encouraged models to show their personalities and emotions, using their facial expressions and body language to convey a sense of style and glamour.

Fashion Photography as a Business

As fashion photography gained popularity, it also became a business. Photographers such as Steichen and de Meyer were paid handsomely for their work, and the demand for fashion photography grew as more and more magazines and advertisers recognized its value. Fashion photography had become a powerful tool for marketing and advertising, and its influence on the fashion industry was immense.

Conclusion

The early fashion photographers, such as Edward Steichen and Adolphe de Meyer, were pioneers in the field of fashion photography. They drew inspiration from the art of painting and sculpture, and encouraged models to express themselves through their facial expressions and body language. As fashion photography evolved, it became a powerful tool for marketing and advertising, and its influence on the fashion industry was immense.

The Influence of Art and Advertising

The influence of art and advertising played a significant role in the emergence of fashion photography as a distinct genre.

• Art: Early fashion photography was heavily influenced by the art movements of the time, such as Impressionism and Art Nouveau. These movements emphasized the use of light and color to create a mood or atmosphere, which became integral elements in fashion photography. Art also influenced the composition and framing of fashion images, with photographers using techniques such as the rule of thirds and leading lines to create dynamic and visually appealing images.
• Advertising: Fashion photography emerged as a tool for advertising, as retailers and fashion houses sought to promote their products through visual media. Advertising photographers were among the first to use fashion photography as a means of selling clothing and accessories, and they often worked closely with fashion designers and retailers to create images that would appeal to consumers. Advertising also played a role in shaping the aesthetic of fashion photography, with photographers using techniques such as retouching and airbrushing to create a polished and glamorous look that would appeal to consumers.

In summary, the influence of art and advertising played a crucial role in the emergence of fashion photography as a distinct genre. Early fashion photographers drew inspiration from art movements and used their skills to create visually appealing images that would sell products. The use of light, color, composition, and retouching techniques helped to shape the aesthetic of fashion photography and create the iconic images that we see today.

The Rise of Fashion Magazines

Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar

The evolution of fashion photography cannot be discussed without acknowledging the role of fashion magazines, specifically Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. These two publications played a crucial role in shaping the fashion industry and revolutionizing the way photographers approached fashion photography.

Vogue, founded in 1892, was originally a society magazine that featured fashion plates. However, it wasn’t until the 1920s that Vogue began to focus more heavily on fashion, with photographers like Edward Steichen and Annie Leibovitz contributing to the magazine.

Harper’s Bazaar, founded in 1867, also started out as a general-interest magazine but began to incorporate more fashion content in the 1930s. During this time, photographers like Cecil Beaton and George Hoyningen-Huene contributed to the magazine, helping to establish it as a leading fashion publication.

Both Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar were instrumental in promoting the work of fashion photographers and helped to establish a distinct aesthetic for fashion photography. They were also key in introducing new photographers to the industry and promoting emerging trends in fashion and photography.

The influence of these two magazines on the fashion industry cannot be overstated. They have played a crucial role in shaping the way we think about fashion and photography, and their impact can still be felt today.

The Importance of Fashion Photography in Magazines

Fashion photography has been a significant component of fashion magazines since their inception. Its prominence in these publications has grown over time, becoming an essential tool for designers, photographers, and stylists to showcase their work and creativity. This section will delve into the reasons behind the increasing importance of fashion photography in magazines.

Visual Storytelling

Fashion photography in magazines serves as a visual storyteller, conveying a message or narrative beyond mere advertisement. It enables designers and stylists to showcase their creativity, using clothing, accessories, and styling to create a visual representation of their work. The images capture the essence of a designer’s collection or a stylist’s vision, offering readers a glimpse into the world of fashion.

Branding and Identity

Fashion photography in magazines plays a crucial role in building a brand’s identity and recognition. By featuring designs in editorial spreads, magazines contribute to shaping the image of a brand, showcasing its aesthetic and appeal. This exposure helps establish designers and brands in the industry, solidifying their presence and fostering brand loyalty among readers.

Cultural Impact

Fashion photography in magazines has a profound impact on popular culture, shaping trends and influencing societal attitudes towards fashion. Through editorial spreads, magazines dictate the styles and looks that become popular, and in turn, shape the way people dress and perceive fashion. The power of fashion photography in magazines is evident in its ability to transform trends and make them accessible to a broader audience.

Artistic Expression

Fashion photography in magazines serves as a platform for artistic expression, providing photographers with a medium to showcase their creativity and vision. It encourages experimentation with lighting, composition, and style, pushing the boundaries of traditional photography. The inclusion of fashion photography in magazines elevates the publication to an art form, blending fashion and photography to create a unique and captivating visual experience.

In conclusion, the importance of fashion photography in magazines cannot be overstated. It serves as a visual storyteller, aids in branding and identity, has a profound cultural impact, and offers a platform for artistic expression. The combination of these factors has contributed to the rise of fashion photography in magazines and its position as a vital component of the fashion industry.

The Role of Fashion Photographers in Shaping the Industry

Establishing the Visual Language of Fashion

Fashion photographers played a pivotal role in shaping the industry by establishing the visual language of fashion. They experimented with various techniques, styles, and formats to convey the essence of fashion and its evolution. Their creative vision and technical skill contributed to the establishment of a unique visual vocabulary that continues to influence contemporary fashion photography.

Capturing the Essence of Fashion

Fashion photographers were instrumental in capturing the essence of fashion, emphasizing its beauty, elegance, and glamour. They explored various themes, such as the relationship between clothing and identity, the power of fashion as a cultural symbol, and the impact of fashion on society. By documenting these themes, fashion photographers provided a comprehensive view of the fashion industry and its influence on contemporary culture.

Defining the Fashionable Body

Fashion photographers also played a crucial role in defining the fashionable body. They challenged traditional beauty standards and embraced diversity, showcasing models of different shapes, sizes, and ethnicities. By promoting a more inclusive view of beauty, fashion photographers expanded the boundaries of fashion and helped redefine the ideal of beauty.

Creating Icons and Legends

Fashion photographers were responsible for creating icons and legends in the industry. They captured the essence of fashion personalities, such as designers, models, and stylists, and presented them as cultural icons. Through their lens, they immortalized fashion figures and helped to create a lasting legacy for the industry.

Pushing the Boundaries of Fashion Photography

Fashion photographers were not afraid to push the boundaries of their craft. They experimented with new techniques, styles, and formats, pushing the limits of what was considered possible. They embraced new technologies and innovative approaches, constantly challenging themselves and their peers to create groundbreaking images that would define the future of fashion photography.

Influencing Contemporary Fashion Photography

The role of fashion photographers in shaping the industry is still evident today. Their contributions have influenced contemporary fashion photography, shaping the way fashion is perceived and portrayed. Their creative vision and technical skill continue to inspire photographers, designers, and fashion enthusiasts around the world, ensuring that their legacy lives on.

The Father of Fashion Photography: Edward Steichen

Biography and Career

Edward Steichen was born in Luxembourg in 1879 and emigrated to the United States with his family at the age of 18. He initially trained as a painter but soon turned to photography, becoming one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century.

Steichen began his career as a photographer in the early 1900s, working for a variety of magazines and publications. He was a co-founder of the Photo-Secession movement, which aimed to elevate photography to the status of fine art. Steichen’s work was characterized by its technical excellence and attention to detail, as well as its innovative use of lighting and composition.

In 1907, Steichen became the first chief photographer of Vogue magazine, a position he held until 1914. During this time, he created some of his most iconic images, including a series of photographs of fashionable women taken at the beach. These images helped to establish the genre of fashion photography as we know it today.

After leaving Vogue, Steichen continued to work as a photographer and experiment with new techniques and styles. He was also a noted painter and exhibited his work in galleries and museums. Steichen’s career as a photographer spanned over six decades, and his influence on the medium was profound. He was a master of light and composition, and his work continues to inspire photographers and artists today.

The Family of Artists

Edward Steichen, an American photographer, is widely regarded as the father of fashion photography. However, his family of artists played a crucial role in shaping the field as well. These artists, who were contemporaries of Steichen, collaborated, competed, and influenced each other, ultimately contributing to the evolution of fashion photography.

Some of the notable members of this family of artists include:

• Adolph de Meyer: A Belgian-born photographer, de Meyer was the first chief photographer at Vogue and worked closely with Steichen. He was known for his striking portraits and his use of light and shadow.
• Nickolas Muray: A Hungarian-born photographer, Muray was a close friend of Steichen and a frequent collaborator. He was known for his innovative use of multiple exposures and his ability to capture the essence of his subjects.
• Margaret Bourke-White: An American photographer, Bourke-White was the first female photographer to work for Life magazine. She was known for her dynamic images of industry and her ability to capture the spirit of her subjects.
• Cecil Beaton: An English photographer, Beaton was known for his iconic portraits of Hollywood stars and British royalty. He was also a costume designer and won several Academy Awards for his work on films such as “Gigi” and “My Fair Lady.”

These artists, along with Steichen, helped shape the field of fashion photography, pushing the boundaries of the medium and creating a new form of artistic expression. Their work inspired future generations of photographers, and their legacy continues to influence the fashion industry today.

Steichen’s Influence on Fashion Photography

Edward Steichen, an American photographer, is widely regarded as the father of fashion photography. His influence on the genre can be seen in the way he approached fashion photography, and his innovative techniques and artistic vision continue to inspire photographers today.

One of Steichen’s most significant contributions to fashion photography was his use of light. He believed that light was the most important element in a photograph and used it to create dramatic effects and highlight the beauty of the clothing. Steichen experimented with different lighting techniques, such as using multiple flashbulbs and backlighting, to create images that were both dynamic and visually stunning.

Steichen also paid close attention to composition and the use of negative space in his images. He believed that the placement of the subject within the frame was crucial to creating a successful photograph, and he often used negative space to draw the viewer’s attention to the subject. This attention to detail and emphasis on composition helped to elevate fashion photography from mere advertising to a form of art.

In addition to his technical innovations, Steichen also brought a sense of glamour and sophistication to fashion photography. He often worked with high-end fashion magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair, and his images helped to establish the magazine as a tastemaker in the world of fashion. Steichen’s photographs were characterized by their elegance and sophistication, and he was known for his ability to capture the essence of his subjects and convey their personalities through his images.

Overall, Steichen’s influence on fashion photography cannot be overstated. His innovative techniques, attention to detail, and artistic vision helped to establish fashion photography as a legitimate form of art and continue to inspire photographers today.

Steichen’s Legacy in the Industry

Edward Steichen, an American photographer, is widely regarded as the father of fashion photography. His pioneering work in the genre helped to shape the way that fashion is depicted in photography today. Steichen’s legacy in the industry can be seen in the way that he revolutionized the use of lighting and composition in fashion photography, as well as his influence on the development of the concept of the “fashion photographer” as a distinct profession.

One of Steichen’s most notable contributions to fashion photography was his use of lighting. He was a master of using light to create dramatic effects and to enhance the beauty of his subjects. He often used multiple light sources to create a sense of depth and dimension in his images, and he was skilled at using shadows to create contrast and emphasize certain elements of his compositions.

Steichen was also a master of composition, and his images often featured striking arrangements of form and space. He was particularly skilled at using the human form to create dynamic and visually compelling images, and his work often featured models in poses that were both striking and expressive.

In addition to his technical contributions to fashion photography, Steichen was also a key figure in the development of the profession of fashion photography. He was one of the first photographers to make a living exclusively from fashion photography, and his work helped to establish the genre as a legitimate and important form of artistic expression.

Overall, Steichen’s legacy in the fashion photography industry is a testament to his innovation, creativity, and skill. His contributions to the field continue to be felt today, and his influence can be seen in the work of many contemporary fashion photographers.

Alternative Perspectives: Other Contenders for the Title

Baron Adolf de Meyer

Baron Adolf de Meyer was a French photographer who made significant contributions to the world of fashion photography in the early 20th century. Born in Paris in 1868, de Meyer began his career as a painter before turning to photography in the 1890s. He quickly gained recognition for his elegant and sophisticated portraits of the social elite, and his work was widely published in magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

One of de Meyer’s most notable contributions to fashion photography was his use of light and shadow to create dramatic and visually striking images. He was particularly skilled at using soft, diffused light to create a sense of atmosphere and mood, and his images often featured models posed against dark backgrounds, emphasizing their form and shape.

De Meyer’s influence on fashion photography can also be seen in his use of composition and framing. He often employed techniques such as the diagonal line and the rule of thirds to create dynamic and visually interesting images, and his images frequently featured models in motion, capturing the energy and dynamism of the modern world.

Despite his significant contributions to the field, de Meyer’s work has often been overshadowed by that of other photographers, particularly those working in the same era. However, his innovative use of light, shadow, and composition continue to influence fashion photographers to this day, making him a key figure in the evolution of fashion photography.

Nickolas Muray

Nickolas Muray was a Hungarian-born photographer who played a significant role in the development of fashion photography in the early 20th century. Known for his striking portraits and his pioneering use of color, Muray’s work had a profound impact on the way fashion was perceived and represented in the world of photography.

Pioneering Use of Color

One of Muray’s most significant contributions to the field of fashion photography was his pioneering use of color. Unlike many of his contemporaries, who were still predominantly working in black and white, Muray embraced the potential of color photography and used it to create images that were bold, vibrant, and striking. His use of color helped to bring fashion to life in a way that had never been seen before, and his work continues to be celebrated for its innovation and creativity.

Influence on Fashion Advertising

Another important aspect of Muray’s work was his influence on fashion advertising. Many of his images were commissioned by department stores and fashion houses, and his ability to create images that were both beautiful and commercially appealing helped to establish fashion photography as a powerful tool for promoting products. Muray’s images were often used in print advertisements and in store windows, helping to establish the connection between fashion and advertising that continues to this day.

The Muray Wrap Dress

Muray’s work also had a direct impact on the fashion industry itself. In the 1940s, he collaborated with designer Claire McCardell to create a dress that became known as the “Muray Wrap Dress.” This simple yet elegant design was revolutionary in its simplicity, and it quickly became a staple of American fashion. The success of the Muray Wrap Dress helped to establish McCardell as one of the most important designers of her time, and it demonstrated the power of fashion photography to shape the direction of the industry.

Overall, Nickolas Muray’s contributions to the world of fashion photography were significant and far-reaching. His pioneering use of color, his influence on fashion advertising, and his impact on the fashion industry itself make him a contender for the title of “Father of Fashion Photography.”

Cecil Beaton

Cecil Beaton was a British photographer, painter, and designer who rose to prominence in the 1920s and 1930s. He was known for his distinctive style, which blended fashion, portraiture, and surrealism. Beaton’s photographs often featured elongated, graceful figures with exaggerated features, such as long necks and elongated fingers. He was also known for his use of dramatic lighting and shadow, which gave his images a sense of depth and mystery.

One of Beaton’s most famous photographs is his portrait of actress Gloria Swanson, which was taken in 1926. The image features Swanson wearing a long, flowing gown and holding a feather boa, and is considered a masterpiece of the art form. Beaton’s photographs were also known for their wit and humor, and he often used his images to satire society and fashion.

Beaton’s influence on fashion photography was significant, and his work was widely imitated by other photographers. He was also a major influence on the work of Richard Avedon, who would go on to become one of the most famous fashion photographers of the 20th century. Despite his many accomplishments, however, Beaton is not typically considered to be the “father” of fashion photography, and his contributions to the field are often overshadowed by those of other photographers.

The Impact of Fashion Photography on the Industry

The Relationship Between Fashion Photography and Fashion Design

The relationship between fashion photography and fashion design is symbiotic. Both fashion photography and fashion design have a mutual dependence on each other. The images created by fashion photographers are used to showcase the latest fashion designs and trends. These images are featured in magazines, advertisements, and fashion shows, which are instrumental in promoting the designs of fashion designers. In turn, fashion designers provide inspiration to fashion photographers by creating unique and innovative designs that can be captured in photographs.

The relationship between fashion photography and fashion design has evolved over time. In the early days of fashion photography, photographers were more focused on capturing the clothing and accessories in a realistic and straightforward manner. However, as fashion photography became more established, photographers began to experiment with new techniques and styles, such as the use of color, lighting, and composition, to create more dynamic and creative images. This evolution of fashion photography has had a significant impact on the fashion industry, as it has helped to establish fashion photography as a recognized art form and has played a key role in shaping the public’s perception of fashion.

Fashion photography has also influenced fashion design in terms of the trends and styles that are popular. Photographers have the ability to capture the essence of a particular trend or style and communicate it to a wider audience. This has led to a greater focus on creating visually stunning and unique designs that can be captured in photographs. Fashion designers have also learned to use fashion photography as a tool to showcase their designs and reach a wider audience. This has helped to establish fashion photography as an integral part of the fashion industry and has made it an essential element in the promotion and marketing of fashion designs.

In conclusion, the relationship between fashion photography and fashion design is a mutually beneficial one. Fashion photography provides a platform for fashion designers to showcase their designs and reach a wider audience, while fashion design provides inspiration for fashion photographers to create unique and innovative images. This relationship has evolved over time and has had a significant impact on the fashion industry, helping to establish fashion photography as a recognized art form and shaping the public’s perception of fashion.

The Influence of Fashion Photography on Popular Culture

Fashion photography has had a profound impact on popular culture, influencing everything from the way people dress to the way they view themselves. It has played a crucial role in shaping the fashion industry and has been instrumental in creating and sustaining the idea of fashion as a form of artistic expression.

One of the key ways in which fashion photography has influenced popular culture is by creating a visual language that has become ubiquitous in advertising and marketing. Fashion photography has helped to establish a set of visual cues that are used to communicate the values and aspirations of the fashion industry, and these cues have become an integral part of the cultural lexicon.

Another way in which fashion photography has influenced popular culture is by creating a platform for the celebration of individuality and self-expression. Fashion photography has always been about more than just selling clothes; it has been about creating a visual narrative that reflects the mood and spirit of the times. This has made it an important tool for communicating ideas about identity and self-expression, and has helped to create a more open and accepting culture.

Finally, fashion photography has had a profound impact on the way people view themselves and their bodies. Fashion photography has long been criticized for promoting unrealistic beauty standards, but it has also been praised for its ability to challenge these standards and to promote diversity and inclusivity. By showcasing a wide range of body types and styles, fashion photography has helped to broaden the definition of beauty and to encourage people to embrace their individuality.

Overall, the influence of fashion photography on popular culture has been both positive and negative, but its impact on the fashion industry and on the way people view themselves cannot be denied. It has helped to create a visual language that is used to communicate the values and aspirations of the fashion industry, and has provided a platform for the celebration of individuality and self-expression. It has also challenged traditional beauty standards and has helped to promote diversity and inclusivity.

The Future of Fashion Photography

The future of fashion photography appears to be an exciting fusion of traditional techniques and cutting-edge technology. With the advent of digital cameras and the widespread use of social media platforms, fashion photography is evolving at a rapid pace.

Here are some trends that are likely to shape the future of fashion photography:

1. Increased Use of Digital Media

Digital media has revolutionized the way fashion photographs are produced, edited, and distributed. Photographers can now manipulate images in ways that were previously impossible, allowing for a greater degree of creativity and control over the final product. Social media platforms such as Instagram and Facebook have also made it easier for photographers to share their work with a wider audience, opening up new opportunities for exposure and recognition.

1. Greater Emphasis on Diversity and Inclusion

Fashion photography has traditionally been criticized for its lack of diversity and inclusivity. However, there is a growing trend towards greater representation of people of different races, genders, and body types in fashion imagery. This shift towards greater diversity is being driven by a growing awareness of the importance of representation and inclusivity in the fashion industry, as well as by the rise of social media platforms that allow for greater visibility and influence from a wider range of voices.

1. The Rise of Sustainable Fashion Photography

As sustainability becomes an increasingly important issue in the fashion industry, there is a growing trend towards more environmentally-friendly fashion photography. This includes the use of recycled materials and sustainable practices in the production of fashion photography, as well as a greater focus on promoting sustainable fashion messages through imagery.

1. Virtual Reality and Augmented Reality

Virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies are increasingly being used in fashion photography to create immersive and interactive experiences for viewers. These technologies allow photographers to create more dynamic and engaging images, as well as to provide new and innovative ways for audiences to interact with fashion imagery.

1. The Continued Evolution of Fashion Photography as an Art Form

Finally, the future of fashion photography is likely to see continued evolution and experimentation as a form of art. As fashion photographers continue to push the boundaries of traditional techniques and explore new technologies and mediums, the art of fashion photography is likely to continue to evolve and mature.

FAQs

1. Who is the father of fashion photography?

The father of fashion photography is often considered to be Edward Steichen, an American photographer who was active in the early 20th century. He was the first to use the term “fashion photography” and was known for his innovative and influential work in the field. His images often featured stylish and glamorous models, and he was instrumental in shaping the way that fashion photography would look in the years to come.

2. When did fashion photography begin?

Fashion photography began in the late 19th century, but it wasn’t until the early 20th century that it really took off. Photographers like Edward Steichen were instrumental in establishing fashion photography as an art form, and their work helped to shape the way that we think about fashion today.

3. What makes fashion photography different from other types of photography?

Fashion photography is unique in that it is specifically focused on showcasing clothing and accessories. It often features models wearing the latest styles, and the images are often highly stylized and creative. Fashion photography is also often used in advertising and marketing, as it can be an effective way to showcase new products and trends.

4. How has fashion photography evolved over time?

Fashion photography has evolved significantly over the years, with new trends and styles emerging constantly. In the early days of fashion photography, images were often more straightforward and focused on showcasing the clothing itself. However, as the art form has developed, fashion photography has become more creative and experimental, with photographers using a wide range of techniques and styles to create visually stunning images.

5. Who are some other influential fashion photographers?

There have been many influential fashion photographers throughout the history of the art form. Some other notable names include Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, and Helmut Newton, all of whom made significant contributions to the development of fashion photography. These photographers, along with Edward Steichen, helped to establish fashion photography as a respected and influential art form.

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